Olentzero en los pueblos fuera de Pamplona

On Christmas Eve, Elliot and I were able to participate in a traditional Basque holiday event: the annual arrival of the Olentzero.

While the history of this figure goes back a long way, the more contemporary story of the Olentzero makes him out to be a portly, friendly, and modestly dressed charcoal burner who brings treats and gifts to children on the night before Christmas.

Cities and small towns alike throughout the Basque region of Spain carry out their own celebration of the Olentzero. These events usually involve people in traditional dress, candy, roasted chestnuts, as well as flute and drum playing.

With a friend, we ventured out to Pamplona's country side and participated in a multi-vehicle caravan that visited several pueblitos delivering treats and singing traditional songs.

Our first task was to get a fire going in the charcoal oven.

The Olentzero cottage, where the chestnut-roasting oven would be transported on the back of a pick-up

A better look inside the cottage

Scenic shot of a house and the setting sun

In the first pueblo, I recorded a video of the Olentzero who makes his first appearance coming down from the mountain, as it is told in many stories. Note his charcoal-covered face...very authentic, eh?

Each stop on the Olentzero's route was exciting because you greeted a new crowd of people offering you Patxaran, wine, and cookies -- as well as several children dressed in traditional garb, eager to meet the Olentzero and warm their hands with roasted chestnuts.

We returned to central Pamplona just in time to see the Olentzero celebration in the old part, which was very distinct from the more personal tradition in which we had just participated. This was more of a parade through the old part of the city, with live animals, lots of music, and a shit ton more people. All pretty much right outside our front door.

The banners read something like "Bring our oppressed and exiled back" and they refer to the
Basque people that have been imprisoned for terrorism in parts unknown to their family or friends.

A holiday celebration unlike any other I've seen. In this part of the world, it seems strange to stay inside, even when it's cold.

Just wait 'til New Year's. Shit gets crazy.