Cycling in Pamplona (aka I'm never satisfied)

While I've only been here for 10 weeks, I jumped back on the bike pretty quickly. Within a week of our arrival, Elliot and I had purchased some wheels. A few days later, I was rolling all over this town to parts near and far to meet and teach students. Currently, my weekly commute is approximately 57 kilometers (35 miles-ish). So, I think I have a good idea of what biking in Pamplona is like -- at the very least, I have a better idea than most people I know here (most of whom walk rather than ride). And I gotta say, Europe may have the better rep as far as competitive/recreational cycling goes, but I would take Philly commuting any day.

A view of Pamplona from about 6 km out (little less than 4 miles).

I should clarify something first: Pamplona, like many cities (big and small) throughout Europe, has a very tangible cycling infrastructure. At first glance, the system looks way better than anything you've seen in the US, mainly because of the abundance of bike paths. They often run alongside the sidewalk (like many in Philly); sometimes the white lines are painted on the sidewalks (which are extra wide to accommodate pedestrians and cyclists. And they really are everywhere! And people really use them! There are even traffic lights specifically for cyclists -- lights that tell you when it's okay to cross the intersection and when it's not. There are also often short barriers between the bike paths on asphalt and the part of the street used by cars, mainly to keep drivers from driving or parking in the bike lanes. I'll say it again: Pamplona's cycling infrastructure is very visible, well-used, and widespread.

I just can't like it. As much as I scorned the haphazard system in Philly, I miss it. Although some find this to be a major fault, there wasn't really a distinct line between where bikes should go and where they shouldn't. I endured so much public shaming for riding on the sidewalk, against traffic, in the bike lane, beside the bike lane, in the grass, in front of a car, behind a car, beside a car, etc. I learned to ignore anyone in a car, and just ride as safely as I could, with a helmet securely over my skull. This usually meant taking a full lane because cars always gave me a lot of room, even when they were attempting to throw something at me.

Secret bike path that a student's mom told me about -- it's secret because I didn't know about it.

Here, however, it is very clear where bikes should be. And riders follow the rules. Probably because if you roll off the bike path, you're riding with European drivers -- who can be a little intimidating. Plus, we Americans ain't so used to roundabouts. Every street is like the Ben Franklin parkway, and every intersection like Logan Square. So riders stick to the paths, because they're well-marked and car-free. Not me, though. Following a roundabout on the pavement may be a little stressful, but following it on the sidewalk is down-right frustrating. A lot of waiting, rolling up and down handicap curbs, dodging wandering pedestrians, and more waiting. Can't take it, don't want it, won't have it. I'll follow the cars.

Sometimes, though, riding on the sidewalk ain't so bad. On longer stretches of road that leave the city, very few pedestrians can be found walking on the paths. Plus, the traffic picks up a little bit so it does feel better off to the side. But just like they heavily regulate cycling traffic, the Spaniards also like to keep the walkers in line. So there are hip-high barriers that border the lengths of sidewalk where pedestrians shouldn't cross. This makes hopping off the asphalt that much harder. And on top of that, the asphalt doesn't gradually taper off on the sides, creating a gutter for water run-off. Instead, there's a shallow but pretty sudden drop on either side of the roads (Philly: think "trolley tracks"). 

To make a long story short, Pamplona wants you to stay in one line or the other. You can't be a part of pedestrian traffic, and also vehicle traffic. Unfortunately, I think this is what most major US cities dream of when it comes to reforming cycling regulations. But I got wheels! I want riding to be smooth and efficient (i.e. not on the sidewalk). I miss the cycling limbo in Philly.

And the weirdest thing is that I'm often the only person I see in the street. Sure, I see other riders. But they're rollin' along on the paths, and I'm huffin' and puffin' to keep up with traffic (and probably because I stayed in siesta-mode a little too long before class). Why do they settle for the safer albeit slower route? Am I just another impatient American?

I have to cross this bridge once a week to get to the other side of some railroad tracks,
where my student lives. I hate the bridge but I enjoy the student, so I suppose it's worth it.

Part of me thinks that there aren't as many distance commuters as you might find in Philly. Riders in Philly use bikes for a variety of different reasons, but a major perk is commuting power. Here, most people work a few blocks from home; and if they don't, they drive or catch the bus. Furthermore, you're guaranteed to find any commercial necessities (groceries, apparel, pharmaceuticals, etc.) within a few steps of your door. Most of the people I know here are more likely to have a car they use more than their bike. Populations are very concentrated, so you're never very far from where you need to go. Thus, Spaniards don't expect much of their city's cycling infrastructure.

Then again, Pamplona must have really coughed up some dough to build the infrastructure they have now. Why not a better one? Or, am I really just another impatient American?